Thursday, December 12, 2013

Live from Ahmedabad



Our path to the elephant spotting began with our visit with the Self Employed Women’s Association (SEWA), a trade union that aims to empower poor, self-employed female workers. In the morning, we met with one of the directors of SEWA who took us to a bustling vegetable market where many SEWA members earn a living by selling produce to the thousands of shoppers who visit the busy area every day. The activity and energy of the market was palpable — we passed through merchants organizing piles of fresh coriander, unloading trucks full of deep purple-hued eggplants and setting up shop at stalls surrounding the warehouses. In the middle of all the activity, the SEWA director suddenly began to play a game of guessing my weight near a large vegetable scale. Next thing I knew, I found myself on the scale. The SEWA director seemed to enjoy it, at least. While winding through the market, we found another elephant grazing with his owner and were naturally occupied for the next half hour taking pictures, petting and feeding it. Total elephant count now went up to two in one day — not bad at all! After our visit to the market, we stopped by a SEWA bank branch where we learned the ways that the organization helps to lift marginalized poor women in the informal sector out of poverty. Our meeting with SEWA ended with a presentation on the group’s initiatives and a tasty veg lunch. 


Our afternoon was spent at Mahatma Gandhi’s ashram, known as Sabarmati Ashram. The ashram was one of the residences of Gandhi, who lived here for about 12 years with his wife Kasturba and it was from this base that Gandhi led the influential Dandi march in 1930 that sparked the Indian independence movement. The grounds of the site were extremely peaceful, and I could easily imagine Gandhi finding spiritual inspiration and repose here while watching parrots fly around in the trees and enjoying the breeze from the River Sabarmati nearby. The ashram featured a detailed exhibit of Ghandi’s biography and some of his most impactful and lasting work. Also for anyone who might be visiting the ashram in the future: watch out for the chipmunks. They can be a bit aggressive!



After going for a quick coffee break to rest from exploring the ashram, we headed back to Ahmedabad Train Station. With some caffeine in our systems, we braced ourselves for the absolute chaos of the station as we headed to take the Swarna Raj Express overnight to Delhi. With our large (and others extra large) pieces of luggage in tow, we slogged through the station and tried our best to avoid the swarms of loud crowds and suspiciously smelly pathways. By the time we reached our platform, our tour guide Chetan was already sweating bullets and looked a bit stressed at the thought of helping us board the train. Note to Chetan: you rock. By 6 p.m., we were off. And thus was the beginning of a 14-hour journey to our final destination of the trip, Delhi.

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